Mochila Pikachu

You can purchase a full color, ad free, printable PDF here.

Who doesn’t want to carry their wallet and phone around in the cutest pokemon ever?

This small size bag is perfect for every day use.

It has all the charm of a traditional mochila bag – with a slightly nerdy twist!

Size

This pattern is for a small size bag, the final dimensions are approximately 5” (13 cm) in diameter, and 7” (17 cm) tall. The strap woven for the pictured bag measures 50” (127 cm).

Materials

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  • you may substitute other brands of yarn, but for the best results, and the proper size bag, make sure the yarn you purchase is 100% mercerized cotton and 125m/50g.
  • Some other suitable brands are: Phildar Phil Coton 3, Schachenmayr Catania, Yarn and Colors “Must-Have”, Paton’s Grace

Abbreviations Used – US crochet terms

  • mc – magic circle
  • sc – single crochet (always done in back loop only for this type of bag)

If you are new to making mochila bags, you can read my post about getting started here.

Once you are familiar with the crochet techniques for mochila, you can start on your base.

Base

There are three options on how to crochet your base. You can do it with 8, 10 or 12 increases. The bag shown in the pictures is done with 10 increases. The number of increases you need will depend on your experience and personal tension. I have a very hard time keeping the bottom flat with only 8 increases. If you are new to the techniques, start with either 10 or 12 increases. I also suggest working at a table or have a flat surface nearby to constantly check to make sure your base is laying flat.

If you base starts to wave or ripple, you have to many increases, and should go down in the number of increases you are using.

If your base is cupping, or bowling, you should add more increases, and be sure that you are not pulling your carry threads to tight. Every time I pull my carry threads and model my stitches, I place my base down on a table to make sure it is still flat.

The base of this bag is not a repeating pattern. I have divided the image into wedges. You will start with wedge 1, then the repeat wedge (repeat it either 2, 3, or 4 times depending if yo are doing 8, 10 or 12 increases), then wedge 2. You will then repeat the whole sequence for the other half of the circle.

When adding in your carry yarn, do not add in colour E. We will be dropping a colour to add it in later.

With colour c start with (8, 5 or 6) sc in a magic circle,

  • if you are doing 8 increases, go to round 2
  • for 10 and 12 increases only * ic * (10, 12)

rnd 2: * ic * (16, 20, 24)

rnd 3: * id, 1d * (24, 30, 36)

rnd 4: * 1d, id, 1d* (32, 40, 48)

rnd 5: 2d, 1b, ib, (2b, ib, 1b), 1b, ib, 1b, 3d, 1c, ic, (2c, ic, 1c), 1c, ic, 1c, 1d (40, 50, 60)

rnd 6: 2d, 2b, ib, (2b, ib, 2b), 1b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, (2c, ic, 2c), 1c, ic, 2c, 1d (48, 60, 72)

rnd 7: 2d, 2b, ib, 1b, (1b, ib, 4b), 2b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, 1c, (1c, ic, 4c), 2c, ic, 2c, 1d (56, 70, 84)

rnd 8: 2d, 2b, ib, 2b, (4b, ib, 2b), 3b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, 2c, (4c, ic, 2c), 3c, ic, 2c, 1d (64, 80, 96)

rnd 9: 2d, 4b, ib, 1b, (3b, ib, 4b), 2b, ib, 4b, 3d, 4c, ic, 1c, (3c, ic, 4c), 2c, ic, 4c, 1d (72, 90, 108)

rnd 10: 2d, 2b, ib, 4b, (6b, ib, 2b), 5b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, 4c, (6c, ic, 2c), 5c, ic, 2c, 1d (80, 100, 120)

rnd 11: 2d, 4b, ib, 3b, (5b, ib, 4b), 4b, ib, 4b, 3d, 4c, ic, 3c, (5c, ic, 4c), 4c, ic, 4c, 1d (88, 110, 132)

rnd 12: 2d, 2b, ib, 6b, (4b, ib, 6b), 7b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, 6c, (4c, ic, 6c), 7c, ic, 2c, 1d (96, 120, 144)

  • for 12 increases, stop here and move onto the side pattern

rnd 13: 2d, 6b, ib, 3b, (7b, ib, 4b), 4b, ib, 6b, 3d, 6c, ic, 3c, (7c, ic, 4c), 4c, ic, 6c, 1d (104, 130)

rnd 14: 2d, 2b, ib, 8b, (10b, ib, 2b), 9b, ib, 2b, 3d, 2c, ic, 8c, (10c, ic, 2c), 9c, ic, 2c, 1d (112, 140)

  • for 10 increases, stop here and move onto the side pattern

rnd 15: 2d, 10b, ib, 1b, (7b, ib, 6b), 2b, ib, 10b, 3d, 10c, ic, 1c, (7c, ic, 6c), 2c, ic, 10c, 1d (120)

Side Pattern

For the sides, your tension is still very important. You want your sides to go strait up, and no get tighter or looser on certain rows. This is more difficult on rows that have long colour stretches, since there is a tendency to pull the carrying threads too tight. Always make sure you line your stitches back up so they are neatly stacked after you pull your carrying yarn.

Depending on the number on increases you did for your base will determine which charts you will use. Follow chart 1A for 8 increases, follow chart 1B for 10 and 12 increases. Chart 2 is the same for all. Start in the bottom right hand corner of chart 1 (A or B) and continue to the bottom right corner of chart 2.

The written instructions can be found below the images.

 

 

chart 1A – front panel for 8 increase base
chart 1B – front panel for 10 and 12 increase base
Chart 2

Written Pattern, 8 increase base:

Rnd 1: 120d

rnd 2: * 2a, 2c, 3a, 4c, 1a*

rnd 3: * 1a, 4c, 3a, 2a, 2a*

rnd 4: 120d

rnd 5: 120d

rnd 6: 120b

rnd 7: 120a

rnd 8: 120a

rnd 9: 120a

rnd 10: 120a

rnd 11: 120a

rnd 12: 15a, 6d, 7a, 6d, 29a, 42e, 15a

  • approximately 10 stitches before you change to colour E drop colour C and add in colour E

rnd 13: 13a, 3d, 4a, 3d, 3a, 3d, 4a, 3d, 25a, 46e, 13a

rnd 14: 13a, 1d, 8a, 5d, 8a, 1d, 25a, 46e, 13a

rnd 15: 6a, 4b, 29a, 4b, 20a, 42e, 15a

rnd 16: 5a, 6b, 12a, 3d, 12a, 6b, 76a

rnd 17: 5a, 6b, 27a, 6b, 76a

rnd 18: 5a, 6b, 27a, 6b, 76a

rnd 19: 6a, 4b, 29a, 4b, 77a

  • approximately 10 stitches after you are done with colour B, drop it and add in colour C

rnd 20: 12a, 5d, 15a, 5d, 83a

rnd 21: 11a, 7d, 13a, 7d, 82a

rnd 22: 10a, 9d, 11a, 9d, 24a, 42e, 15a

rnd 23: 10a, 9d, 11a, 9d, 22a, 46e, 13a

rnd 24: 10a, 5d, 2c, 2d, 11a, 5d, 2c, 2d, 22a, 46e, 13a

rnd 25: 11a, 4d, 2c, 1d, 13a, 4d, 2c, 1d, 25a, 42e, 15a

  • approximately 10 stitches after you are done with colour E, drop it and add in colour B

rnd 26: 12a, 5d, 15a, 5d, 83a

rnd 27: 120a

rnd 28: 120a

rnd 29: 120a

rnd 30: 120a

rnd 31: 120c

rnd 32: 120d

rnd 33: Button holes will be done in this round To make a button hole, work 5 stitches over the carry threads and not into the stitches. Skip 5 stitches, and continue to crochet around as per the instructions.

  • * 5d, button hole, 10d, button hole, 5d*

rnd 34: * 1a, 4b, 3a, 2b, 2a *

rnd 35: * 2a, 2b, 3a, 4b, 1a *

rnd 36: 120d

  • Once you have about 30 stitches left, cut one of your carry colors. Do 10 more stitches, and cut another color. Repeat for the final carrying color. Complete the round and slip stitch into the next stitch. Finish off your yarn and weave in any ends.

Written Pattern, 10 and 12 increase base:

Rnd 1: 144d

  • if you did the 10 increase base, add in 4 increases this round so your stitch count is 144

rnd 2: * 2a, 2c, 3a, 4c, 1a*

rnd 3: * 1a, 4c, 3a, 2a, 2a*

rnd 4: 144d

rnd 5: 144d

rnd 6: 144b

rnd 7: 144a

rnd 8: 144a

rnd 9: 144a

rnd 10: 144a

rnd 11: 144a

rnd 12: 27a, 6d, 7a, 6d, 41a, 42e, 15a

  • approximately 10 stitches before you change to colour E drop colour C and add in colour E

rnd 13: 25a, 3d, 4a, 3d, 3a, 3d, 4a, 3d, 37a, 46e, 13a

rnd 14: 25a, 1d, 8a, 5d, 8a, 1d, 37a, 46e, 13a

rnd 15: 18a, 4b, 29a, 4b, 32a, 42e, 15a

rnd 16: 17a, 6b, 12a, 3d, 12a, 6b, 88a

rnd 17: 17a, 6b, 27a, 6b, 88a

rnd 18: 17a, 6b, 27a, 6b, 88a

rnd 19: 18a, 4b, 29a, 4b, 89a

  • approximately 10 stitches after you are done with colour B, drop it and add in colour C

rnd 20: 24a, 5d, 15a, 5d, 95a

rnd 21: 23a, 7d, 13a, 7d, 94a

rnd 22: 22a, 9d, 11a, 9d, 36a, 42e, 15a

rnd 23: 22a, 9d, 11a, 9d, 34a, 46e, 13a

rnd 24: 22a, 5d, 2c, 2d, 11a, 5d, 2c, 2d, 34a, 46e, 13a

rnd 25: 23a, 4d, 2c, 1d, 13a, 4d, 2c, 1d, 37a, 42e, 15a

  • approximately 10 stitches after you are done with colour E, drop it and add in colour B

rnd 26: 24a, 5d, 15a, 5d, 95a

rnd 27: 144a

rnd 28: 144a

rnd 29: 144a

rnd 30: 144a

rnd 31: 144c

rnd 32: 144d

rnd 33: Button holes will be done in this round To make a button hole, work 5 stitches over the carry threads and not into the stitches. Skip 5 stitches, and continue to crochet around as per the instructions.

  • * 7d, button hole, 13d, button hole, 6d *

rnd 34: * 1a, 4b, 3a, 2b, 2a *

rnd 35: * 2a, 2b, 3a, 4b, 1a *

rnd 36: 144d

  • Once you have about 30 stitches left, cut one of your carry colors. Do 10 more stitches, and cut another color. Repeat for the final carrying color. Complete the round and slip stitch into the next stitch. Finish off your yarn and weave in any ends.

Crab Stitch Edging

Switch to color D and join your yarn in a stitch near where you ended your final round. When you do your crab stitch, skip 1 stitch in between stitches. This gives a nicer spacing to the ridges.

Strap – Woven

The strap for this bag was woven on an inkle loom. The plain weave pattern in below.

Strap – Crochet

If you do not want to weave your strap, I designed a pattern for a crochet one as well.

Measure how long you would like your strap. For the pattern shown, your beginning chain should be in multiples of 12. When crocheting, you will use the same technique as for the bag. Add all of your carry threads in the first stitch of the row. Work over your carry threads for all rows, and work in the back loop only. Do not turn at the end of the row, you will cut all yarn and restart at the beginning again. Leave long tails (3-4”) at the start and end of each row for your fringe.

with colour B: chain in multiples of 12 +1

row 1: *12b *

Row 2: *12d *

row 3: *1a, 3c, 4a, 3c, 1a *

row 4: *2a, 3c, 2a, 3c, 2a *

row 5: *12d *

row 6: *12b *

Drawstring

To determine how long you want your drawstring, use a scrap of yarn and run it through your button holes. Tie it how you would like. Measure the length of the yarn strand.

For kumihimo, you will want to use yarn that is 3 times as long as you want your finished cord. For my cord, I wanted 23” (69 cm), so I cut my yarn at 70” (205 cm). I use thread bobbins to keep my yarn from tangling while working on the cord. Below are photos on how I set up my yarn, and what the finished cord looks like. Feel free to choose any design you like. You can also use a braid for your drawstring.

You can also braid a drawstring or use a leather strap, or anything you want, be creative! If you intend on adding tassels to your drawstring, make sure you have large knots on each end to secure your tassels to.

Be sure to weave your drawstring through your button holes before you put on your slide and tassels.

Since most of the pattern for this bag is on the front, I decided not to use tassels. I added some bracelet ends to my cord, and some charms I had to finish it off. They can be purchased online or in any craft store.

For instructions on how to make a drawstring slide and how to make tassels, please see the post on finishing touches.