Bella’s Cotton Bag

You can purchase a full color, ad free, printable PDF here.

You can add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

I have been seeing the bulky cotton yarn in stores for a while now, and have been trying to figure out what to make with it other than washcloths and hot pads.  Then I saw this beautiful round purse, and knew exactly what I had to make.  I love how thick and sturdy the bag is.  You could carry around text books in it if you wanted to!  I think I will stick to bringing more yarn with me everywhere I go.

[adhere]

Dimensions

  • diameter – 13” (33 cm)
  • strap length – 22” (56 cm)
  • depth – 2.5” (7 cm)

Materials

This list contains affiliate links that provide me with a small commission if you purchase your supplies from them.

  • Bernat Handicrafter Chunky
    • I used Grey and Robin’s Egg for the pictured purse
      • I used 3/4 of the Grey ball, and only a very small amount (60 g, 2 oz) of the Robin’s Egg. If you wanted to do this all in one color, 1 400 g ball would be enough. Or you could make a second purse and just reverse the colors.
    • you could also use regular worsted (#4) cotton held triple to make this purse
  • 8 mm (L/11)
  • tapestry needle
  • measuring tape
  • scissors

Abbreviations Used – Us crochet Terms

  • mc – magic circle
  • st – stitch
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • dcblo – double crochet in the back loop only

Gauge – Not critical, but at the end of round 3, the diameter should be about 5” (13 cm)

Purse Pattern – Make Two

row 1: start with a mc, ch 2 (does not count as a st), 10 dc in mc. Sl st to top of 1st dc (10 dc)

row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout pattern), dc in same stitch as ch 3. 2 dc in each of the next 8 st (18 dc)

[adhere2]

row 3: ch 3, turn, dc in same stitch as ch 3. (Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat to end. (27 st)

break Grey yarn, turn work, join Robin’s Egg with a sl st,

row 4: ch 1, (2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 2 st) repeat to end (36 st)

break Robin’s Egg yarn, turn work, join Grey with a sl st,

row 5: ch 3, dc in same stitch as ch3. (Dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat to end. (45 st)

break Grey yarn, turn work, join Robin’s Egg with a sl st,

row 6: ch 1, (2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 4 st) repeat to end (54 st)

break Robin’s Egg yarn, turn work, join Grey with a sl st,

row 7: ch 3, dc in same stitch as ch 3. (Dc in next 5 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat to end. (63 st)

[adhere]

row 8: ch 3, turn, dc in same stitch as ch3. (Dc in next 6 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat to end. (72 st)

row 9: ch 3, turn, dc in same stitch as ch 3. (Dc in next 7 st, 2 dc in next st) repeat to end. (81 st)

ch 50 and sl st to the top of the other side of the gap. This will be your strap.

Row 10: Ch 3, turn, dc in each of the 50 ch sts. When you reach the main body of the purse, dcblo in each st. Sl st to the top of the ch 3, cut yarn. (131 st).

Joining the two halves

If you want an invisible seam, you can whip stitch the two halves together using Grey yarn.

[adhere2]

I wanted a stripe of Robin’s Egg for my join. I used the zipper join, with the insides of the bag panels together.

Find the center stitch on the bottom of the bag – 41st st, counting from either side.

Stating with a slip knot, sl st the sides together through the center loops only. Insert your hook from the top down on both sides of the join. It is a little awkward, but makes a beautiful join. Make sure your sl st are nice a loose.

Inside Edging

Join your Robin’s Egg yarn in any stitch along the inside edge, and evenly sc around. Place 1 sc in each of the ch st of the handle. Sl st to the first sc. Repeat for the other side.