Floppy Pony Plushie

You can purchase a full color, ad free, printable PDF here.

This was the first crochet pattern I ever wrote.  It has gone through dozens of edits, and my photography skills have improved a lot in the last year and a half.

This is a super fun, quick and simple project you could tackle in an evening or two.  These little guys work up to about 8″ long, and are perfect for little hands to snuggle.

Or you can really up-size the pattern with blanket yarn.  All the details can be found here.

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Materials

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The sample in the photos was made with Red Heart Comfort yarn, which recommends a 5.5 mm (I/9). I used a 5 mm (H/8) to keep the stitches tight enough so stuffing won’t show through. You can use any size or type of yarn that you want for this project.

You can see the pony I made with Bernat Blanket Yarn here.

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Abbreviations Used – US Crochet Terms

  • ch – chain stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • blsc – single crochet in the back loop only
  • inc – increase
  • dec – decrease
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet

All parts of the pony are worked in continuous rounds (unless stated otherwise). I placed a stitch marker in the last stitch of each round to keep track of where the the next round would end.

Body

  • 25 g of worsted weight yarn (48 yards, 44 m)

Using your chosen color, form a magic ring

rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

pull ring tight, insert stitch marker in 6th sc, move it up after each round

rnd 2: inc x 6 [12]

rnd 3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]

rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]

rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 [36]

rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

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rnd 8 – 11: 42 sc [42]

rnd 12: (dec, 4 sc) x 7 [35]

rnd 13 – 15: 35 sc [35]

rnd 16: (dec, 4sc) x 5, (dec, 3 sc) x 1 [29]

rnd 17-19: 29 sc [29]

rnd 20: (dec, 3 sc) x 5, (dec, 2 sc) x 1 [23]

rnd 21-23: 23 sc [23]

rnd 24: (dec, 3sc) x4, (dec, 1 sc) x1 [18]

rnd 25: 18 sc [18]

At this point, you want to start stuffing your body. It should be firm, but not so stuffed that your stitches are separating.

rnd 26: dec x 9 [9]

rnd 27: dec x 4, 1 sc [5]

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (12” or so). There should be a very tiny hole in the top of your piece. Add more stuffing now to make sure the firmness is even. Use your tapestry needle to close the hole. Remember to leave your yarn tail, we will use it to assemble the pony later.

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Head

  • 19 g of worsted weight yarn (36 yards, 33 m)

Using your chosen color, form a magic ring

rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

pull ring tight, insert stitch marker in 6th sc, move it up after each round

rnd 2: inc x 6 [12]

rnd 3: 6 sc, 6 inc [18]

rnd 4: 18 sc [18]

rnd 5: 6 sc, (inc, sc) x 6 [24]

rnd 6-10: 24 sc [24]

rnd 11: (inc, 3 sc) x6 [30]

rnd 12-13: 30 sc [30]

rnd 14: (inc, 4 sc) x6 [36]

rnd 15-16: 36 sc [36]

rnd 17: (dec, 2 sc) x9 [27]

rnd 18: 27 sc [27] – photo

rnd 19: (dec, 1 sc) x 9 [18]

rnd 20: 18 sc [18]

At this point, you want to start stuffing your head. It should be firm, but not so stuffed that your stitches are separating.

rnd 21: (dec, 1 sc) x 6 [12]

rnd 22: dec x 6 [6]

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Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a short tail (6” or so). There should be a very tiny hole in the top of your piece. Add more stuffing now to make sure the firmness is even. Use your tapestry needle to close the hole. You do not need to leave a tail for this piece.

Legs (make 4)

  • 3g of worsted weight yarn per leg (5.7 yards, 5.3m)

Using your chosen color, form a magic ring

rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

pull ring tight, insert stitch marker in 6th sc, move it up after each round

rnd 2: inc x 6 [12]

rnd 3: blsc x 12 [12] – this will make the sides of the legs go strait up

rnd 4-9: sc x 12 [12]

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (12” or so).

Ears Pieces (make 4)

  • 1g each (2 yards, 1.7m)

Each ear is made in 2 parts, and will joined together. You will be working in rows on both sides of the starting chain. If you want the inside of your ear to be a different color then the outside, make 2 of each color. When it comes to joining them, make sure your join in the outside color.

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row 1: ch 7,

  • sc in 2nd chain from hook,
  • 1 sc in the next 4 chains
  • 3 sc in the next chain (should be the last one)
  • working along the other side of the beginning chain, 5 sc
  • you will have 13 sc at this point

row 2:

  • ch 1, turn
  • sc in the first 6 stitches
  • 3 sc in the next stitch (should be the middle sc from the 3 sc in round 1)
  • sc in the next 6 stitches

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, weave in your ends.

Assembling the Ears – do twice

Take 2 of your ear pieces, and place them together with wrong sides facing. Join your yarn at the end, and make 1 sc in each sc around. Make sure you work through both loops of each piece (work under 2 loops total). Do not crochet along the bottom edge.

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (12” or so).

Fold the bottom of the ear in half (the un-worked edge) and sew it together using the tail. Tie a knot, and leave the tail, we will use it to attach the ears.

Unicorn Horn (optional)

  • 2g (4 yards, 3.5m)

ch 2

rnd 1: 3sc in 2nd chain from hook [3]

rnd 2: inc, sc, inc [5]

rnd 3: (sc, inc) x2, 1 sc [7]

rnd 4-7: 7 sc [7]

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (12” or so).

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Pegasus Wings (optional)

Each wing is made in 4 pieces, and will be sewn together. There is the main wing (which we sew the feathers to), a long central feather, and 2 small side feathers.

Main Wing (make 2)

2g (4 yards, 3.5m)

You will work in rows, not rounds for this part.

Ch 2

row 1: 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook [2]

row 2: ch 1, turn, inc in each stitch [4]

row 3: ch 1, turn, sc, inc x 2, sc [6]

row 4: ch 1, turn, sc, inc x 4, sc [10]

row 5: ch 1, turn, 10 sc [10]

row 6: ch 1, turn,

  • skip 1 stitch, 3 hdc in next stitch
  • sl st in next stitch
  • skip 1 stitch, 5 dc in next stitch
  • skip 1 stitch, sl st to next stitch
  • skip 1 stitch, 3 hdc in next stitch
  • sl st to last stitch

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, weave in your ends.

Large Feathers (make 2)

  • <1g each (2 yards, 1.7m)

You will work in rows, not rounds for this part.

row 1: ch 7,

  • sc in 2nd chain from hook,
  • 1 sc in the next 4 chains
  • 3 sc in the next chain (should be the last one)
  • working along the other side of the begining chain, 5 sc
  • you will have 13 sc at this point

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row 2:

  • ch 1, turn
  • sc in the first 6 stitches
  • 3 sc in the next stitch (should be the middle sc from the 3 sc in round 1)
  • sc in the next 6 stitches

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, weave in your ends.

Small Feathers (make 4)

  • <1g each (2 yards, 1.7m)

You will work in rows, not rounds for this part.

ch 5

row 1: 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, 1 sc in the next 3 chains [5]

row 2: ch 1, turn, inc in the first 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 stitches [7]

Pull yarn through to finish off, cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (12” or so).

Assembling the wings – do twice

Start by weaving in the starting tails on all of your parts, leaving the long end tails for assembly.

Join the large feather to the main wing part, by sewing it to the back of the main wing, behind the 5 dc shell. Tie off the tail, and weave in the end.

Next, join the two small feathers on either side of the large feather, behind the 3 hdc shell. Tie off the tails and weave in the ends.

Assembling your Pony

Now that you have all your pieces made, lets put them together. Before we start, here are a few tips that I use.

  • I use a curved sewing needle, also know as a doll makers needle to assemble my stuffed animals. It is possible to do without, but I find it much easier.
  • Use sewing pins to place your pieces before you sew! Having to unpick and redo parts because they moved while sewing is not fun.
  • Once I tie off an end, I hide the end inside the plushie. I use a large tapestry needle and run the end through the middle of the plushie and cut off anything that hangs out the other end.

Step 1: Sew the head to the body.

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  • Start sewing about 2 or 3 rounds away from the center to give a nice sturdy neck.
  • Tie a knot in your yarn once the head is attached and weave in your ends.

Step 2: Attach the legs.

  • Add a small amount of stuffing to the legs, and attach in the desired location. I place my front legs almost at the neck, and my back legs on the widest part of the body.

Step 3: Attach the ears

  • Line up the back of the ear with the 4th row from the neck seam, and about 6-7 stitches apart.

Optional: Attach the horn and/or wings.

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  • Attach the horn to the middle of the top of the head, midway between the ears, and about 1-2 rows forward.
  • Attach the wings to the back of the body, almost touching in the middle. They should be just behind the front legs when viewed from the top. I only sew down the main part of the wing, not the feathers.

Step 5: Embroider Eyes

  • Or you can use buttons, safety eyes, crocheted eyes – it is up to you!

Step 6: Add mane and tail

  • For my pony, I used some leftover scraps of yarn. You will want to cut about 30-40 pieces of yarn, about 10-12” long for the tail and mane.
  • Fold a strand in half and use a small crochet hook to loop the yarn onto the pony. For the tail, place about 7-10 strands through the centre of the magic ring, and another 7-10 strands around the first row of 6 sc. If you want a fuller tail, keep adding more strands.
  • When you are happy with the thickness, trim any long strands to even out the tail.
  • We will do the same for the mane, only now we will attach the yarn to the sc stitches on the top of the head between the ears.

I also made a massive “pillow” pony plushie using blanket yarn.  All the details are here.